With today’s exploding clothing
markets of leisure , casual wear and sports wear , garment wet processing has
emerged as one of the best production routes towards meeting the quick changing
fashion markets.
Unlike fabric or yarn as a
substrate , a garment is not a uniform in texture ,it is full of thick places
like seams , multilayered sites like pockets , cuffs and shoulders. At times
certain unevenness like puckered seams lend a distinct style often highly
valued but it could result into rejection of goods at other times .
Here we will try to figure out
certain key problems associated with garment dyeing and their possible causes,
so that a garment can analyze and overcome these problems.
Garment size control and
appearance
- variations in yarn size / twist
- ends per inch
- picks per inch
- courses per inch in the knitted fabrics
Spirality in Knitted Fabrics
- Twist of the yarn
- Fibre parameters,
- Yarn formation system,
- Yarn geometry,
- Knit structure
- Fabric finishing.
Poor tear strength of garment
- Degradation of cotton during
- pretreatment,
- dyeing and
- finishing such as stone /enzyme washing.
Pilling
- Low twisted yarns.
- Use of low staple length, cheaper fibre in manufacture of yarns
- Surface friction of fabrics/garments during wet processing and handling
- Reworking of goods
- Cylinder rotation is too high.
- Liquor ratio is too low.
- Excessive cycle time
Puckering of seams during
dyeing
- Improper selection of stitching thread.
- Due to high twist in sewing thread
- High residual and wet shrinkage of sewing threads
- High stitching tension and improper stitch length..
Poor Rubbing fastness
- Improper washing and soaping treatment after dyeing.
- Too much unexhausted dye in dyebath.
- Loosely held surface indigo dyes
- Considerable back staining in each step
- Exposure to atmospheric ozone
Poor light fastness
- Use of reactive dyes which are not light fast
- Use of formaldehyde based dyefixing agents
White, undyed or light seams
- Use of improper thread such as polyester thread on cotton garments.
- Use of mercerized thread on unmercerized garments.
- Mixing of different types of threads such as mercerized and un mercerized .
- High tension stitching .
- Unmatched Shrinkage behavior of garment and thread .
Dullness around Metallic
fittings
- Corrosion and chemical reaction between metallic parts in
- Pretreatment
- Bleaching
- Dyeing
- Finishing
Streakmarks/ Lines / Creases
- Overloading of machine
- Friction between Garments
- Entanglement of garments.
Shade nonuniformity
- Differences in fabric preparation processes like
- Desizing,
- Scouring
- Bleaching.
- Inconsistency in the garment assembly
Poor Dye
Yield
- Garments contain a finish, softener, or an optical brightener.
- Garments were allowed to dry out after pretreatment stage
- Liquor ratio is too high.
- Agitation is too slow.
- Excessive washing between cycles.
- Excessive time spent in any cycle.
- Too much/too little pretreatment.
- Not pretreated for correct time and/or temperature.
Blotchy or
Non-Uniformly Dyed Garments
- Garments contain a finish, softener, or an optical brightener.
- Liquor ratio is too low (want 20:1).
- Excessive bath temperature at beginning of pretreat or dye cycle.
- Dye bath temperature ramped too quickly .
- Improper addition or dilution of dyes/chemicals.
- Live steam injection into bath.
- Hard water.
- Garments not scoured properly
- Garments were allowed to dry out after pretreatment stage
- Garments
not allowed to wet-out sufficiently before adding pretreatment.
Patchy dyeing
- Starting temperature too high
- Heating rate too High
- Salt addition at high temperature
- Addition of dyes and chemical at once
Spotting
- Formation of foam
- Improper washing
- Machine not clean.
- Excess pretreat not rinsed from garment before dyeing.
- Dye not properly diluted or stirred before bath addition.
- Incompatibility of auxiliaries.
Harshness
- Insufficient size removal
- Use of high quantities of alkali
- Poor softner application
Smell
- Acetic acid,
- Residual chlorine,
- Cationic softners
Back staining
Improper maintenance of
- pH
- Temperature
Blotchy / unlevel dyeing in
pigment dyeing
- Improper preparation
- Higher dosage of cationic reactant
- High rate of rise in temperature during Cationization
- Direct contact of steam with garment
- Too low MLR hence uneven build-up of Cationizer
Batch to batch shade
reproducibility in Pigment dyeing
- Change in pH during cationization
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