Calendering Process :- A Technical article By RESIL TEAM
What is Calendering Process?
Calendaring is the process of smoothing and compressing a textile material by passing a single
continuous sheet of fabric through a number of pairs of heated rolls.
The rolls in combination are called calenders. Calender rolls are constructed of steel with a
hardened surface, or steel covered with fiber.
Purpose of doing Calendering Process for textiles:
The fabric is then run through rollers that polish the surface and make the fabric smoother and
more lustrous. Due to High temperatures and pressure the Fabrics that go through the
calendering process feel thin, glossy and papery.
Types of calandering Machine:
Nipco-Flex Calender: The pressure application concept of this calender is different from the conventional
calendering system.
The pressing roller consists of a rotating shell that is covered with a highly elastic plastic
material named as RACOLAN.
The roller has fixed axels on which hydrostatic support elements are mounted that press the racolan shell against either steel or a cotton/paper roller.
The hydrostatic pressure is applied with oil and is adjustable according to width of the cloth.
The NIPCO roller can be arranged in vertical position or in L shape with a hot steel roller at top
and a cotton bowl in front of it.
The main advantages of NIPCO calender over a conventional calender are;
1. Attainment of very high pressure.
2. Adjustment of pressure line according to width of cloth.
3. No over load at the fabric selvedge.
4. Easy installation and removal of the rollers.
Felt Calender:
Felt calenders are mainly used for imparting lustre and smoothness to silk, rayon and cotton
knitwear materials.
These work at low pressure and temperature than used for cotton.
The cloth is pressed between an endless felt blanket and a hot steel cylinder at a speed of 20 to 40 meters/minutes
Textile dying and treatment processes produce 17 to 20 percent of
industrial water pollution in the world. 72 toxic chemicals, 30 of which
cannot be removed, have been found in our water solely from textile
dyeing. As a vital part of textile production, the dyeing processes
cause a large problem for designers who are trying to be more
environmentally conscious.
AirDye® technology is a water free dyeing and printing process.
AirDye technology has been produced by AirDye Solutions, formerly
Colorep Inc., and is a technology development and textile design
company. On their website AirDye Solutions describe themselves as,
“passionate about creating new printing and dyeing technologies that
improve quality, value, and accessibility while helping to sustain the
planet.”
AirDye technology uses a one-step process, where the liquid state of
dye is eliminated altogether. The process starts with heating fabric and
simultaneously dye is injected into the fibers in the form of gas. “The
entire process is waste-free: the paper is recycled, and used dyes and
toners are also recycled to make tar and asphalt.” One downfall is that
only synthetic textiles can be dyed using AirDye, as the physics of the
technology do not work with natural fibers such as cotton.
Up to 95% of the water, 86% of the energy and 84% of the green house
gases can be saved using AieDye as compared to conventional print and
dye methods. Up to 45 gallons of water can be saved in the production of
just one garment. The dying of synthetic fabrics alone uses 2.4
trillion gallons of water, every year, and with an unknown/untold amount
of environmental damage.
AirDye technology creates a large opportunity for regions around the
globe that cannot obtain water as easily, to localize textile
production. As AirDye technology improves, more water/energy will be
saved and hopefully the mass market of textile production could be ready
for a monumental change.
DyeCoo Textile Systems,
a Netherlands-based company, created DryDye technology and the first
commercially available textile dyeing machines to use recycled carbon
dioxide instead of water. The name “DyeCoo” was derived from the process
of “dyeing” with “CO2” (carbon dioxide).
DryDye fabrics are dyed using supercritical fluid CO2, which means
carbon dioxide is in the form of an expanded liquid or heavily
compressed gas. Once the CO2 is heated to 120 degrees Celsius and
pressurized, it can then color synthetic fibers and enhances the
distribution of dyes into fabrics, as stated on DyeCoo’s website.
Read About Waterless dyeing of polyester using supercritical carbondioxide by cschumacherhere
ISO-105-N02-1995
This method is intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds, and in all forms, to the action of bleaching baths containing peroxide in concentrations commonly used in textile processing.
A specimen of the textile in contact with adjacent fabrics is immersed in the bleaching solution, rinsed and dried. The change in color and the staining .
Brief description Bath1 (for natural and regenerated cellulose)
Treat the test specimen and adjacent fabric in bleach solution containing 5 ml /ltr hydrogen peroxide ( 30% solution) ,5 ml/l sodium silicate and 0.1 gpl of magnesium chloride. Set the initial pH 10.5 ,m:l 1:30, for 1 hr at 90 deg cel. Rinse for 10 min in cold water ,squeeze and hang to dry in warm air at max 60 deg cel. Bath 2.(for natural and regenerated cellulose)
sodium peroxide(30%) 3 gpl
sodium silicate solution 5 ml/l
magnesium chloride 0.1 gm/l
Initial pH 11.3-11.7
M;L 1:30,temperature 80 deg cel for 60 min. Bath 3( for wool and acetate)
Hydrogen peroxide(30%) 20 gpl
sodium pyrophosphate 5 ml/l
magnesium chloride 0.1 gm/l
Initial pH 10.0
M;L 1:30,temperature 70 deg cel for 120 min. Bath 4( for silk)
Hydrogen peroxide(30%) 20 gpl
sodium silicate solution 5 ml/l
Initial pH 9.3
M;L 1:30,temperature 50 deg cel for 120 min.
For detailed information on the subject please go here BS-en-ISO-105-N02-1995 http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-N02.HTM
Textile printing refers to the production of designs of any kind that could not be made on textile fabrics by normal weaving/knitting techniques. Before the printing process, the cloth should be thoroughly prepared by different wet process namely designing, scouring and bleaching. Printing is mainly done on finished fabrics, curtain clothes, ladies dress materials, bed sheets, bed covers, fabric for children garments, gents shirts etc. to improve its attractiveness, marketability etc.
Screen printing can be done in single colour or in combination of different colours as per end use requirement. Colour combination is an important area by which the appearance of an ordinary fabric can be improved to a maximum extent. It is, therefore, necessary that the quality printing material, chemicals and printing screen should be good so that printed items are fully accepted in the market.
The various steps involved in printing process are
1.preparation of printing paste,
2.printing of fabric,
3.fixation of dye stuff by curing/steaming,
4.washing off,
5.calendering,
6.folding and packing.
It uses a rigid frame to support a porous mesh (screen) which, in turn, supports a stencil (design). Screens containing the designs is placed over the table and the dye paste is pressed over the screen by means of rubber squeezer. The stencil lets dye paste pass through the mesh (print area) and blocks it everywhere else, to produce an image. A variety of mesh/stencil/squeegee combinations provide a wide range of printing capabilities, thus making screen printing one of the most versatile printing processes known. This same versatility appeals to entrepreneurs in a nearly unlimited number of industries; the wide variety of uses makes screen printing that much more attractive.The selection of dyes and gums depends on the construction of basic cloth to be printed and their end use. After printing, the printed clothes are cured or steamed for the fixation of the colour. Later, the printed material is thoroughly washed to remove loose dye stuffs. Then, it is calendered, folded and packed for the delivery.
Quality Control and Standards
A quality printed item should have good fastness to washing, rubbing and light. This can be achieved by properly fixing the print on the cloth by curing or steaming. Dyes to be used should be of good quality and capable of giving bright shades. Printing quality is not covered by any specifications.
Light-emitting nanofibers shine the way for optoelectronic textiles OLEDs in fiber form could lead to revolutionary applications by integrating optical and optoelectronic devices into textile. Combined with nanoelectronic devices, we might one day see flexible optical sensors and display screens woven into shirts and other garments. You could literally wear your next-generation smart phone or iPad on your sleeves; including the solar panels to power them. health tips
It is observed that some bloggers related to textile industry are copying and republishing material from this blog , i appeal to them please stop it and remove it from your blog.The information shared here is available to public you can share it and you can provide a link in your blog to share.
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Nike backs waterless dyeing | Dyes & Chemicals News
BEAVERTON – Nike has entered into a strategic partnership with DyeCoo Textile Systems B.V., a Netherlands-based machinery builder that has developed and built the first commercially available waterless textile dyeing machines that use CO2 instead of water.
But with operating pressures for these machines reaching a massive 250 bar, can this technology really take off?
This method is intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds, and in all forms, to the action of bleaching baths containing peroxide in concentrations commonly used in textile processing.
A specimen of the textile in contact with adjacent fabrics is immersed in the bleaching solution, rinsed and dried. The change in colour and the staining .
The Nanotechnology Knowledge Transfer Network (NanoKTN) has announced details of a workshop highlighting new developments applied to textiles using embedded electronics, 'smart' materials and surface coatings technologies.
Once applied to textiles they can enable interactivity, functionality and protection.
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Now a days many commercial
products based on innovative clay or mineral chemistry are available for discontinuous bleaching of
cotton and its blends with hydrogen peroxide. The clay or mineral technology
have several advantages over conventional peroxide bleaching process.
What are these clay or mineral based products
(http://dyeingworld1.blogspot.com)
The clay or mineral based
products are a composition of naturally occurring mineral or clays such as montmorillonite and/or bentonite in
combination with suitable wetting , sequestering agents and viscosity control agents . The clay is
finely dispersed in the form of a non settling, non separating emulsion which
can be diluted with water and can be used easily. The clay structure is based
on sheets. By separating these sheets e.g. by stirring, a very big surface is
created This surface (till 800 M 2 per gram) makes it possible to absorb all
kind of components like dirt, oil, greases etc. This gives an unique detergency
effect .Two properties of montmorillonite crystals enable its use as a highly
effective bleaching agent:
•On the one hand, impurities are
adsorbed from the fabric and the liquor, due to the high specific surface area.
•On the other hand,
montmorillonite has the property to replace disturbing heavy metal ions in the
bleaching bath by Na-ions
The result is a dual effect as
bleaching stabiliser and extractant.
How these products acts (http://dyeingworld1.blogspot.com)
In water the clay particles are anionic
charged and show a large adsorption effect for:
Hydrophobic waxes and oils
Metal ions (cation exchange capacity)
Hydrophilic materials and polymers
It is believed that the clay
component provides both a scouring and softening effect, in essence by
adsorbing organic contaminants and acting as an ion exchanger, in effect having
a contaminant-suspending capacity. The powder or agglomerate particles of the
clay divide into primary crystal plates caused by the swelling of the clay. The
average size of the primary crystal plates is approximately 1.mu.. After being
dispersed in the treatment liquor, the contaminants detached from the treated
textile material are adsorbed by the clay particles, resulting in a greatly
reduced redeposition of the contaminants. Textile incrustation is reduced due
to the hardness elements released during washing having either become attached
to the dispersed clay crystals or having been deactivated by the sequestrant.
Clay, a natural product, washes off the treated textile material and forms an
effluent having low BOD and COD values. The clay does not contribute to the BOD
or COD values at all.(Ref: Clay-containing textile material treating
composition and method by Brown;
Harold M. (Lyman, SC))
The higher whiteness index of the
treated textile materials is attributed to the fact that in this bleaching
system the hydrogen peroxide is consumed to the maximum extent ,resulting into
very low or zero residual peroxide.
Advantages of these single-component multifunctional
auxiliaries are
(http://dyeingworld1.blogspot.com)
1.No need of Organic peroxide stabilizers,
2.No need of Dye bath Lubricants,
3.No need of Wetting and scouring agents
4.No need of Emulsifiers in most applications,
5.No need of Antifoaming agent.
6.No need of Machine cleaning aids.
7.Very low or no need of peroxide killer treatment.
8.Shortened bleaching cycle , less water and steam
consumption.
9. Low loss of degree of polymerisation, due to controlled peroxide degradation
10.Better tensile strength compared with conventionally bleached
fabric
11.Lower weight loss.
12, Better removal of oil or silicone
And since these products are derived from clay or natural
resources these are eco friendly in nature , having low COD and BOD values
A typical bleaching recipe for cellulosic material is
(http://dyeingworld1.blogspot.com)
Best suitable for package dyeing machines , jets and
winches .
1-2 ml/l Clay product
2-3 g/l Caustic flakes
2-5 ml/l Hydrogen peroxide 35%
At 95 -98 oC for 45-60 min
Test the peroxide content at equal intervals and ensure
maximum utilization of peroxide , to optimize the process timing.
Followed by hot and cold wash, do peroxide killing if
necessary.
Watch the slide show on textiles and click your favorite topic
Embroidery
Embroidery is the art or
handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or
yarn. Embroidery designs are the way to add excellence and creativity to the
garments and several other form of products. It is a way to give a professional
and sophisticated outlook to the textiles. Embroidery design is used to create
eye-catching effects and striking images on the garments, clothing and several
forms of outfits and home textiles.
Hand Embroidery
The craft of hand embroidery
has a long and interesting tradition and has bought many hours of
creative pleasure to women for generations.
Machine Embroidery
Because the hand embroidery is a time consuming process
and depends largely on the human skills , at the same time it is not possible to
go for large scale commercial production of the same design . These
disadvantages of hand embroidery led to the development of machine and now
digital or computerized machines for embroidery. There are two main types of
machine embroidery. The first, free-motion sewing machine embroidery, uses a
basic zigzag sewing machine. The second, computerized machine embroidery, uses
an embroidery machine or sewing/embroidery machine. With the advancement of
computer technology, machine embroidery is improving very fast in its look and
quality
Dyed on Dyed Embroidery
When the embroidery is done on a
previously dyed fabric or garment either
with in the same shade or in different shade or color combination.
Grieg on Greig embroidery
When the embroidery is done on
either a greig or ready to dye fabric , which is then overdyed in different
colors or shades , to produce articles of same embroidered patterns in
different shades.
Selection of a good embroidery thread
Selecting the proper thread is
achieved by first determining the end-use requirements of the embroidered products.
Other factors that are considered include the type of material being embroidered,
the type of embroidery machines being used, conditions under which the product
must perform, and cost effectiveness.
Types of threads used in machine embroidery
1.Soft cotton threads are used where dull look is required
or in traditional articles to match the outfit designs.
Mercerized cotton threads
2.Mercerized cotton threads have more lusture , more strength and clean finish
, and higher dye pick up make them suitable to produce deeper and brighter
shades.
3.Viscose rayon threads replace traditionally used silk
threads . These have good shine, brighter shades and clean finish .
4.Spun polyester threads give the
look of a cotton thread, but provide superior strength and durability.
Polyester is colorfast, resistant to chemicals, and can be washed or
dry-cleaned with most common cleaning solvents.
Polyester filament threads
Trilobal polyester is a multiple filament, twisted, high-sheen
continuous fiber thread. It has the bright appearance of rayon or silk. If the
desired effect is strength, durability, softness, and brightness, trilobal polyester
is perfect for the job. It is wash, boil, and lightfast and also has a high
resistance to chlorine and abrasion.
Others such as
1.Metallic threads ,
2.Aramid threads
3.Silk threads
4.Glowing or fluorescent threads in cotton and polyester.
5.Multi colored or tie and dye effect threads in cotton and polyester.
6.and polyester cotton core spun threads where core and sheath are dyed
in different shades are used for specific needs and finishes.
Quality requirements for embroidery threads
It
should have good strength
Good
lubricity
Low on
dry and wet shrinkage
Good over all color fastness
Evenly
dyed
Free
from knots , fluffs and thick and thin places.
TPI
and Twist direction of thread as per the embroidery machine requirement.
Non
Metameric ie the shade of embroidery thread should match the base fabric
in different light sources or remain same in different light sources.
Selection of dyed threads for dyed on dyed embroidery
Proper
Shade matching
Even
dyeing within lot
Lot to
Lot shade matching of embroidery thread as well as Fabric.
No
shade change from sampling to bulk production.
The dyed on dyed embroidery option is considered where
When
the substrate of fabric and embroidery thread is different eg polyester or rayon embroidery on cotton
fabric and dyeing after embroidery is not possible.
When
fabric and thread have same color but over dyeing is not possible due to
smaller lot size etc.
A
larger length of fabric is embroidered in multiple designs with same color
thread in combination with others colors or qualities of thread.
In
case of embroidery on finished garments .
Problems encountered in dyed on dyed embroidery
fabrics
1.Shade matching is not proper from sampling stage to bulk production due
to shade change of embroidery yarn and /or fabric in bulk production.
2.Shade mismatch in different light sources, due to metamerism.
3.Poor colorfastness of thread or fabric resulting into cross staining.
4.Lot to lot shade difference either in yarn or fabric or both.
5.Unlevel dyeing of embroidery thread.
Types of threads mainly used in greig on greig
embroidery
The greig on greig embroidery is mostly done for 100% cotton
fabric ,with 100% cotton or rayon embroidery threads.
This is suitable when,
When the
fabric and embroidery yarn are dyeable with same dyestuff to produce a
same shade.
Larger
quantities of fabric are required with same shade of cloth and embroidery.
When a
same embroidery pattern is repeated in different shades , the cloth is
dyed in different shades after embroidery.
Problems encountered in overdyeing of greig on greig
embroidery fabrics
Uneven
dyeing if different qualities of embroidery threads are used
simultaneously due to difference in dye pick up.
Shade
difference in embroidery and fabric is observed when there is difference
between fabric quality and thread quality is there , such as mercerized cotton
fabric and soft thread or vice versa.
Shade
difference between fabric and thread , due to difference in pretreatment
of fabric and yarn such as greig fabric and RFD thread or vice versa.
Wrong
quality of thread is used such as synthetic thread on cotton fabric.
Shade
difference between embroidery due to mixing of different lots of
embroidery thread such as different lots of mercerized threads.
Uneven
dyeing of heavy embroidery patterns because if poor penetration of dyes in
embroidered portions of fabric.
Uneven
dye pick up of embroidered patterns due poor pretreatments such as
scouring and bleaching and insufficient dyeing time for proper dye
penetration and leveling .
Colorfastness requirement of embroidery threads
Good
wash fastness :- The overall wash fastness properties of embroidery
threads must be superior to the base fabric to avoid cross staining .
Good
rubbing or crocking fastness
Good
fastness to dry cleaning
High
sublimation fastness in case of polyester threads
Good
light fastness
Good
chemical wash fastness :- fastness to chemicals such as chlorine or mild
bleaching agents.
With today’s exploding clothing
markets of leisure , casual wear and sports wear , garment wet processing has
emerged as one of the best production routes towards meeting the quick changing
fashion markets.
Unlike fabric or yarn as a
substrate , a garment is not a uniform in texture ,it is full of thick places
like seams , multilayered sites like pockets , cuffs and shoulders. At times
certain unevenness like puckered seams lend a distinct style often highly
valued but it could result into rejection of goods at other times .
Here we will try to figure out
certain key problems associated with garment dyeing and their possible causes,
so that a garment can analyze and overcome these problems.
Garment size control and
appearance
variations in yarn size / twist
ends per inch
picks per inch
courses per inch in the knitted fabrics
Spirality in Knitted Fabrics
Twist of the yarn
Fibre parameters,
Yarn formation system,
Yarn geometry,
Knit structure
Fabric finishing.
Poor tear strength of garment
Degradation of cotton during
pretreatment,
dyeing and
finishing such
as stone /enzyme washing.
Pilling
Low twisted yarns.
Use of low staple length, cheaper fibre in manufacture
of yarns
Surface
friction of fabrics/garments during wet processing and handling
Reworking of
goods
Cylinder rotation is too high.
Liquor ratio is too low.
Excessive cycle time
Puckering of seams during
dyeing
Improper selection of stitching thread.
Due to high twist in sewing thread
High residual and wet
shrinkage of sewing threads
High stitching tension and improper stitch length..
Poor Rubbing fastness
Improper washing and soaping treatment after dyeing.
Too much unexhausted dye in dyebath.
Loosely held surface indigo dyes
Considerable back staining in each step
Exposure to atmospheric ozone
Poor light fastness
Use of reactive dyes which are not light fast
Use of formaldehyde based dyefixing agents
White, undyed or light seams
Use of improper thread such as polyester thread on
cotton garments.
Use of mercerized thread on unmercerized garments.
Mixing of different types of threads such as
mercerized and un mercerized .
High tension stitching .
Unmatched Shrinkage behavior of garment and thread .
Dullness around Metallic
fittings
Corrosion and chemical reaction between metallic
parts in
Pretreatment
Bleaching
Dyeing
Finishing
Streakmarks/ Lines / Creases
Overloading of machine
Friction between Garments
Entanglement of garments.
Shade nonuniformity
Differences in fabric preparation processes like
Desizing,
Scouring
Bleaching.
Inconsistency in the garment assembly
Poor Dye
Yield
Garments
contain a finish, softener, or an optical brightener.
Garments
were allowed to dry out after pretreatment stage
Liquor
ratio is too high.
Agitation
is too slow.
Excessive
washing between cycles.
Excessive
time spent in any cycle.
Too
much/too little pretreatment.
Not
pretreated for correct time and/or temperature.
Blotchy or
Non-Uniformly Dyed Garments
Garments
contain a finish, softener, or an optical brightener.
Liquor
ratio is too low (want 20:1).
Excessive
bath temperature at beginning of pretreat or dye cycle.
Dye bath
temperature ramped too quickly .
Improper
addition or dilution of dyes/chemicals.
Live
steam injection into bath.
Hard
water.
Garments
not scoured properly
Garments
were allowed to dry out after pretreatment stage
Garments
not allowed to wet-out sufficiently before adding pretreatment.
Patchy dyeing
Starting
temperature too high
Heating
rate too High
Salt
addition at high temperature
Addition
of dyes and chemical at once
Spotting
Formation of foam
Improper washing
Machine not clean.
Excess pretreat not rinsed from garment before
dyeing.
Dye not properly diluted or stirred before bath
addition.
Incompatibility of auxiliaries.
Harshness
Insufficient size removal
Use of high quantities of alkali
Poor softner application
Smell
Acetic acid,
Residual chlorine,
Cationic softners
Back staining
Improper maintenance of
pH
Temperature
Blotchy / unlevel dyeing in
pigment dyeing
Improper
preparation
Higher
dosage of cationic reactant
High
rate of rise in temperature during Cationization
Direct
contact of steam with garment
Too
low MLR hence uneven build-up of Cationizer
Batch to batch shade
reproducibility in Pigment dyeing
A specimen of the textile in contact with adjacent fabrics is immersed in the bleaching solution, rinsed and dried. The change in color and the staining .
