Saturday, November 28, 2009

Method for the instrumental assessment of whiteness

This part of IS0 105 specifies a method intended for quantifying the whiteness of textiles, including fluorescent materials.
Principle
The chromaticity co-ordinates x10, y10 and the Y10 tristimulus values are calculated from the spectral radiance factors of the specimen and converted into a whiteness value. If these cannot be calculated, the x, y, Y values may be used instead. The redness/greenness tint factor may also be determined.
for detail click here:-http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-j02.HTM

Measurement of colour and colour differences

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method For measuring the colour difference between two specimens of textile in any form. The existence of a master reference is necessary when the test is carried out by comparing the master reference with the test specimen The method is applicable to coloured specimens.
Principle
This part of ISO 105 selects from the several options published by the International Commission on Illumination (CIE) those best suited to the needs of the textile industry whenever the difference in colour between two specimens has to be quantified.

For more detail click here:-http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-j01.HTM
Instrumental assesment of relative whiteness ISO 105 BS J02
Calculation of color difference between two samples ISO 105 BS J03 1997

Colour fastness to metals in the dye-bath: chromium salts

This method is intended for determining the effect on the colour of a dye, of dyeing in the presence of hexavalent chromium salts. It is applicable to wool. An alternative method is specified in 6.3 to provide a milder test suitable for assessing the effect of chromium salts in such concentrations as might be found when shading.
PRINCIPLE
The difference in colour between dyeings made with and without potassium dichromate is assessed with the grey scale.
For detail please click here;-http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-z01.HTM

Colour fastness to metals

This method is intended for determining the effect on the colour of a dye, of dyeing in the presence of metals (iron and copper or their salts) either used in the construction of dyeing machinery or resulting from water and steam used in dyeing.
PRINCIPLE
The difference in colour between dyeings made in the presence and in the absence of salts of the metal is assessed with the grey scale.
For detail click here:http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-Z02.HTM

ISO 105-A01 to A05

ISO 105-A01:2010 provides general information about the methods for testing colour fastness of textiles for the guidance of users. The uses and limitations of the methods are pointed out, several terms are defined, an outline of the form of the methods is given and the contents of the clauses constituting the methods are discussed. Procedures common to a number of the methods are discussed briefly.
ISO 105 A02 : Describes the grey scale for determining changes in colour of textiles in colour fastness tests, and its use. A precise colorimetric specification of the scale is given as a permanent record against which newly prepared working standards and standards that may have changed can be compared. The essential scale (5 steps) consists of pairs of non-glossy grey colour chips (or swatches of grey cloth). In addition, an augmented scale includes four half-steps and, thus, 9 steps.
ISO 105 A03 :Describes the grey scale for determining staining of adjacent fabrics in colour fastness tests, and its use. A precise colorimetric specification of the scale is given as a permanent record against which newly prepared working standards and standards that may have changed can be compared. The essential scale (5 steps) consists of pairs of non-glossy grey or white colour chips (or swatches of grey or white cloth). In addition, an augmented scale includes four half-steps and, thus, 9 steps.
ISO 105-A04:- Tests for colour fastness. Method for the instrumental assessment of the degree of staining of adjacent fabrics
ISO 105-A05:-Instrumental assessment of change in colour for determination of grey scale rating.Specifies an instrumental method for assessing the change in colour of a test specimen in comparision to an identical untreated reference, and the calculations undertaken to convert the instrumental measurements into a grey scale rating.
ISO 105-F09:2009 specifies a cotton rubbing cloth which can be used for the assessment of staining in colour fastness to rubbing tests. The staining properties of the cotton rubbing cloth under test are assessed against a cotton rubbing cloth reference fabric, using a cotton dyed reference fabric, both of which are available from a specified source.

Grey scale for assessing change in colour

This part of ISO 105 describes the grey scale for determining changes in colour of textiles in colour fastness tests, and its use. A precise colorimetric specific- ation of the scale is given as a permanent record against which newly prepared working standards and standards that may have changed can be compared.
For more detail click here:http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-A02.HTM

Colour fastness to weathering : Xenon arc

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds except loose fibres to the action of weather as determined by exposure in a cabinet equipped with a xenon arc lamp.
Principle
Specimens of the textile are exposed under specified conditions to light from a xenon arc lamp and to water spray. At the same time, eight dyed wool references are exposed to light but are protected from water spray by a sheet of window-glass. The fastness is assessed by comparing the change in colour of the specimen with that of the reference.
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Detection and assessment of photochromism internal basis

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method intended for detecting and assessing change in colour, after brief exposure to light, of coloured textiles which change in colour on exposure to light but which virtually return to their original shade when stored in the dark.
What Is Photochromism?
Principle
A specimen of the textile is exposed to light of high intensity for a time much shorter than that necessary to cause a permanent change. The change in colour of the specimen is assessed immediately after exposure, using the grey scale. The specimen is then stored in the dark and assessed again.
click here for detail: Detailed method
or
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Detection and assessment of photochromism

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method intended for detecting and assessing change in colour, after brief exposure to light, of coloured textiles which change in colour on exposure to light but which virtually return to their original shade when stored in the dark.
Principle
A specimen of the textile is exposed to light of high intensity for a time much shorter than that necessary to cause a permanent change. The change in colour of the specimen is assessed immediately after exposure, using the grey scale. The specimen is then stored in the dark and assessed again.
For mor details please click here:http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-B05.HTM

Friday, November 27, 2009

Quality standards in textiles and garments

Learn about the following:
Quality Standards in Clothing Construction
Quality Control Aspects Of Garment Exports
AQL Inspections Chart
Fabric Quality Systems
Quality Control Managers
Piece Good Inspection
Cutting Room Quality Control
Fabric Defects
In-Process Quality Control
Quality Assurance
Fabric Testing Methods
http://www.firstworldfashion.com/pdf_file/Quality%20control.pdf
Textile quality control and standard testing procedures
words which garment exporters do not like to hear
Quality standards for sewn items
Carpet and Rugs: Understanding Quality and Grades
Quality standards for carpets

Colorfastness to domestic and commerical laundering

Scope and field of application
1.1 This part of IS0 105 specifies methods intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to domestic or commercial laundering procedures used for normal household articles. Industrial and hospital articles may be subjected to special laundering procedures which may be more severe in some respects.
1.2 The colour loss and staining resulting from desorption and/or abrasive action in one "S'' (single) test closely approximates to one commercial or domestic laundering. The results of one "M" (multiple) test may in some cases be approximated by the results of up to five domestic or commercial launderings at temperatures not exceeding 70 oC. The "M" tests are more severe than the "S" tests because of an increase in mechanical action.
1.3 These methods do not reflect the effect of optical brighteners present in commercial washing products.
Principle
A specimen of the textile in contact with specified adjacent fabric or fabrics is laundered, rinsed and dried. Specimens are laundered under appropriate conditions of temperature, alkalinity, bleaching and abrasive action such that the result is obtained in a conveniently short time. The abrasive action is accomplished by the use of a low liquor ratio and an appropriate number of steel balls. The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric or fabrics are assessed with the grey scales.

For More detail click here:- http://www.texanlab.com/documents/downloads/6.pdf

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Colorfastness to washing: Test 5

This part of ISO 105 specifies Test No 5 of a series of five washing tests that have been established to investigate the fastness to washing of coloured textiles and which between them cover the range of washing procedures from mild to severe
A specimen of the textile in contact with one or two specified adjacent fabrics is mechanically agitated under specified conditions of time(4 hrs) and temperature(95 oC ± 2 oC)
in a soap solution(Soap solution, containing 5 g of soap and 2 g of anhydrous sodium carbonate per litre of water ). then rinsed and dried. The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric(s) are assessed with the grey scales.
For Detail please click here
http://www.scribd.com/doc/73185924/Color-Fastness-to-Washing

Colorfastness to washing: Test 4

This part of ISO 105 specifies Test No. 4 of a series of five washing tests that have been established to investigate the fastness to washing of coloured textiles and which between them cover the range of washing procedures from mild to severe.
Principle

A specimen of the textile in contact with one or two specified adjacent fabrics is mechanically agitated under specified conditions of time(40 min ± 2 min) and temperature(95 oC ± 2 oC. ) in a soap solution(containing 5 g of soap and 2 g of anhydrous sodium carbonate per litre of water.), then rinsed and dried. The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric(s) are assessed with the grey scales.

For more details click here:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/29979872/Different-Fastness-Test

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Colorfastness to washing :Test 3

This part of ISO 105 specifies Test No. 3 of a series of five washing tests that have been established to investigate the fastness to washing of coloured textiles and which between them cover the range of washing procedures From mild to severe.
Principle
A specimen of the textile in contact with one or two specified adjacent fabrics is mechanically agitated under specified conditions of time and temperature(prescribed temperature of 60 oC ± 2 oC) in a soap solution, then rinsed and dried. The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric (s) are assessed with the grey scales.
For more details click here:- http://www.scribd.com/doc/29979872/Different-Fastness-Test

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Colorfastness to washing: Test 2

This part of of ISO 105 specifies Test No. 2 of a series of five washing tests that have been established to investigate the fastness to washing of coloured textiles and which between them cover the range of washing procedures from mild to severe.

Principle
A specimen of the textile in contact with one or two specified adjacent fabrics is mechanically agitated under specified conditions of time and temperature in a soap solution, then rinsed and dried. The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric(s) are assessed with the grey scales.

For more details click here:-
http://www.scribd.com/doc/29979872/Different-Fastness-Test
http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-c02.HTM

Colorfastness to washing: Test 1

Colour fastness to washing and laundering
This part of ISO 105 specifies Test No 1 of a series of five washing tests that have been established to investigate the fastness to washing of coloured textiles and which between them cover the range of washing procedures from mild to severe.
A specimen of the textile, in contact with one or two specified adjacent fabrics, is mechanically agitated under described conditions of time and temperature in a soap solution, then rinsed and dried. The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric(s) are assessed with the grey scales.
For details click here:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/29979872/Different-Fastness-Test
http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-c01.HTM

Colorfastness to atmosperic Oxides of nitrogen

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles to the action of oxides of nitrogen in the atmosphere at elevated temperatures and high relative humidities.

A test specimen and a piece of control fabric are simultaneously exposed to oxides of nitrogen in an atmosphere which is maintained at 87.5 % 2.5 % relative humidity and at temperature of 40 øC 1 øC until the control fabric shows a colour change corresponding to that of a reference of fading. The exposure/measurement cycle is repeated until the specimen shows a definite colour change or for a prescribed number of cycles.
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Colorfastness to ozone in the atmosphere

This method is intended for determining the resistance of the colour of all kinds of textiles to the action of ozone in the atmosphere both at ambient room temperatures with relative humidities not exceeding 65 % and at elevated temperatures with relative humidities above 80 %.

A specimen and a swatch of control sample are simultaneously exposed to ozone in an atmosphere at ambient room temperatures and relative humidities not exceeding 65 %, until the control sample shows a colour change corresponding to that of a standard of fading. This exposure period constitutes one cycle. The cycles are repeated until the specimen shows a definite colour change or for a prescribed number of cycles.
A specimen and a swatch of control sample are simultaneously exposed to ozone in an atmosphere which is maintained at 85 ± 5 % relative humidity and a temperature of 40 ± 5 oC until the control sample shows a colour change corresponding to that of a standard of fading. The cycles are repeated until the specimen shows a definite colour change or for a prescribed number of cycles.
The fading of dyes on certain fibres does not readily take place at humidities below 80 %. A test at high humidities is required to produce colour change that predicts service fading under warm, humid conditions.
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AATCC 109-2005 Colorfastness to Ozone in the Atmosphere under Low Humidities

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Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes

(Vitually same as AATCC Test Method 23)
This method is intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms except loose fibres, when exposed to atmospheric oxides of nitrogen as derived from the combustion of butane (C.P.) gas.
This method may be used for rating colour fastness of dyes by applying the dye to textiles by a specified procedure and at a specified depth of colour and testing the dyed textiles.

A specimen of the textile and the test-control fabric are exposed simultaneously to oxides of nitrogen from burnt gas fumes until the test control shows a change in colour corresponding to that of the standard of fading. The change in colour of the specimen is assessed with the grey scale.If no colour change is observed in the specimen after one exposure period or cycle, exposure may be continued for either a specified number of periods or for the number of periods required to produce a specified amount of colour change in the specimen.
For more detail :-
http://wenku.baidu.com/search?word=Colorfastness+to+burnt+gas+fumes&lm=0&od=0&fr=top_view
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Colorfastness to nitrogen oxides

This method is intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to the action of nitrogen oxides produced during combustion of gas, coal, oil, etc., and when air is passed over heated filaments.
Two tests differing in severity are provided;

one or both of them may be used depending on the requirement.

Specimens of textiles are exposed to nitrogen oxides, In a closed container until either one or three test-control specimens exposed simultaneously with the test specimens have changed in colour to a predetermined extent. The change in colour of the specimen is assessed with the grey scale.

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Colorfastness to dry heat (excluding pressing)

This method is intended for determining the resistance of the color of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to the action of dry heat, excluding pressing.
Three tests differing in temperature are provided; one or more of them may be used, depending on the requirements and the stability of the fibers.
When this method is used for assessing color change and staining in dyeing, printing and finishing processes, it should be recognized that other chemical and physical factors may influence the results.
A specimen of the textile in contact with specified adjacent fabrics is heated by close contact for 30 seconds in a drying oven under a pressure of 4 kPa( 40 kg per sq. cm) with a medium which is heated to the required temperature such as
1.150 deg.cel
2.180 deg. cel
3.210 deg.cel
Remove the specimen and hang for 4 hrs in a normal climate ( 20deg cel/65% relative humidity)
The change in color of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed with the grey scales.

For more details click here:-
Standard Test method
ISO 105 P01 1995
colorfastness to heat dry excluding pressing

Colorfstness to Stoving

This method is intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to the action of sulphur dioxide as used for bleaching animal fibres.

A specimen of the textile, containing its own mass of soap solution, and a test-control specimen are exposed in an atmosphere containing sulphur dioxide. The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed with the grey scales.
For more details click here:-
http://www.scribd.com/doc/27163926/BS-en-ISO-105-N05-1995-Textiles-Tests-for-Colour-Fastness
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Colorfastness to bleaching: Sodium chlorite: Severe

This method is intended for determining the resistance of the colour of natural cellulose textiles to the action of Severe bleaching with sodium chlorite as ordinarily employed in textile processing

A specimen of the textile in contact with specified adjacent fabrics is treated in a sodium chlorite solution, rinsed and dried. The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed with the grey scales.
for more detail click here:-
http://www.zjff.net:81/files/20110513/1305249158421_7.pdf
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Colorfastness to bleaching: Sodium chlorite: Mild

This method is intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles composed of natural and regenerated cellulose, and synthetic fibres, to the action of mild bleaching with sodium chlorite as employed in textile processing.

A specimen of the textile in contact with specified adjacent fabrics is treated in a sodium chlorite solution, rinsed and dried. The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed with the grey scales.
For more detail click here:-
http://www.scribd.com/doc/27163914/BS-en-ISO-105-N03-1995-Textiles-Tests-for-Colour-Fastness
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Colorfastness to bleaching: Hypochlorite

This method is intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to the action of bleaching baths containing sodium, calcium or lithium hypochlorite in concentrations normally used in commercial bleaching. It is applicable mainly to natural and regenerated cellulose materials.
A specimen of the textile is agitated in a solution of sodium or lithium hypochlorite, rinsed in water, agitated in a hydrogen peroxide solution or sodium bisulphite solution, rinsed and dried. The change in colour is assessed with the grey scale.
for more detail click here:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/27163559/BS-en-20105-N01-1995-IsO-105-N01-1978-Textiles-Tests-for
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Colour fastness to acid-felting: Mild

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles to the action of dilute and hot mineral acids, as used under mild felting conditions in the hat-making and felt industries.
A specimen of the textile (textiles in all kinds and in all forms) in contact with adjacent fabrics is milled in acid solution, rinsed and dried (action of dilute and hot mineral acids). The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed with the grey scales.
For more detail click here:-

http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-E14.HTM

Colour fastness to acid-felting: Severe

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles in all forms to the action of acids, as used under severe conditions in the acid-felting process.
A specimen of the textile (textiles in all kinds and in all forms) in contact with adjacent fabrics is milled in solutions of acetic and/or sulfuric acid, rinsed and dried. The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed with the grey scales.
For more details click here:- Colorfastness to Acid felting

Colorfastnes to Milling:Alkaline Milling

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of wool and part-wool textiles to the action or soap and sodium carbonate solutions used in alkaline milling.
A specimen of the textile in contact with one or two specified adjacent fabrics is milled in a jar containing steel balls and a solution of soap and sodium carbonate. The severity of the action is controlled by means of a dyed test-control piece milled separately in the same way. After rinsing and drying, the change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed with the grey scales.
For more details click here:http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-E12.HTM

Colorfastness to Steaming

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to the action of steam under atmospheric pressure.
A specimen of the textile (textiles of all kinds and in all forms) in contact with specified adjacent fabrics is rolled into a cylinder and placed in the neck of a flask containing boiling water. The staining of the adjacent fabrics is assessed with the grey scale.
For more detail click here:http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-E11.HTM

Colorfastness to Decatizing

This part of IS0 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles to the action of steam, as employed in the decatizing of wool fabrics. Two tests, mild and severe, are given.
A specimen of the textile is wrapped around a perforated cylinder, and steam passed through it for 15 min. The change in colour of the dried specimen is assessed with the grey scale. Correct handling of the method is controlled by use of a test-control specimen tested under identical conditions. .
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Colorfastness to Potting

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for deter the resistance Or the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to the action of boiling water.It is mainly applicable to wool and textiles containing wool.
A specimen of the textile (textiles of all kinds and in all forms) between adjacent fabrics is rolled around a glass rod and treated with boiling water. The specimen and the adjacent fabrics are dried separately. The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed with the grey scales.
For more detail click here:-http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-E09.HTM

Colorfastness to Water:Hot Water

This part of- IS0 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to the action of hot water. The method is mainly applicable to wool and textiles containing wool.
A specimen of the textile (textiles of all kinds and in all forms) in contact with adjacent fabrics is rolled around a glass rod, treated with slightly acidified hot water and dried. The change in colour of each specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed with the grey scales.
For More details click here:-http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-E08.HTM

Colorfastness to spotting :acid

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to the action of dilute solutions of organic and mineral acids.
Three tests differing in severity are provided Any or all may be used, depending upon the nature of the fibre.

Drops of a solution of acid are placed on the specimen, the surface of which is rubbed gently with a glass rod to ensure penetration. The changes in colour of the textile, while it is still wet and after drying, are assessed with the grey scale. Three tests differing in severity are provided.
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Colorfastness to Rubbing ;Organic solvents

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms, except loose fibre, to the combined action of rubbing and of organic solvents used in spot-cleaning, i.e. localized "spotting" carried out by hand.
A specimen of the textile is rubbed with rubbing cotton cloth impregnated with solvent. The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the rubbing cotton cloth are assessed with the grey scales.

for more details click here:http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-D02.HTM

Colour fastness to acid chlorination of wool: Sodium dichloroisocyanurate

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of wool in all forms to acid chlorination using sodium dichloroisocyanurate 1). This simulates the manufacturing operation in which a liquid containing or liberating active chlorine under mildly acid conditions is used for imparting shrink resistant properties to wool in textiles.
A specimen of the textile (wool textiles in all forms) is treated in a formic acid buffer solution to which solutions of sodium dichloroisocyanurate and sodium hydrogen sulfite are added succesively, and is then rinsed and dried. The change in colour of the specimen is assessed with the grey scale. This treatment simulates the manufacturing operation in which a liquid containing or liberating active chlorine under mildly acid conditions is used for imparting shrink-resistant properties to wool in textiles.
For more details click here:-http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-X14.HTM

Colour fastness of wool dyes to processes using chemical means for creasing, pleating and setting

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of wool textiles of all kinds to processes using chemical means in conjunction with steam for creasing,pleating and setting purposes.

A specimen of the textile (textiles from wool of all kinds), treated with the chemical solution, is placed in contact with specified adjacent fabrics and subjected to steam pressing. A comparison specimen, not treated with the chemical solution, is steam pressed simultaneously. The specimens are dried and any differences between the colour of the two specimens and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed with the grey scales.

For more Detail click here:-http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-X13.HTM

Colour fastness of wool dyes to processes using chemical means for creasing, pleating and setting

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of wool textiles of all kinds to processes using chemical means in conjunction with steam for creasing,pleating and setting purposes.
A specimen of the textile (textiles from wool of all kinds), treated with the chemical solution, is placed in contact with specified adjacent fabrics and subjected to steam pressing. A comparison specimen, not treated with the chemical solution, is steam pressed simultaneously. The specimens are dried and any differences between the colour of the two specimens and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed with the grey scales.
For more Detail click here:-http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-X13.HTM

Colorfastness to Hot Pressing

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to ironing and to processing on hot cylinders.
Tests are given for hot pressing when the textile is dry, when it is wet and when it is damp. The end-use of the textile usually determines which test should be made.
A dry specimen (dry pressing) or a dry specimen covered with a wet cotton adjacent fabric (damp pressing) or a wet specimen covered with a wet cotton adjacent fabric (wet pressing) are pressed with a heating device at a specified temperature and pressure for a specified time.
for more details click here:-http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-X11.HTM

Colorfastness to Formaldehyde

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to the action of formaldehyde vapour, as may be encountered in storehouses where fabrics are stored with materials which have undergone a crease-resistant treatment.
A specimen of the textile (textiles of all kinds and in all forms) is exposed to the action of gaseous formaldehyde in a closed container. The change in colour of the specimen is assessed with the grey scale. This method is not suitable for assessing changes in colour which may occur during crease-resist finishing with urea-formaldehyde products, or in subsequent treatment of the dyeing with solutions of formaldehyde.
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Colorfastness to Degumming

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds, except loose fibre, to the action of soap solutions such as those used in degumming raw silk. A specimen of the textile in contact with adjacent fabrics is treated with a soap solution, then rinsed and dried. The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabrics are assessed with the grey scales.
For more Details :-http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-X08.HTM

Colorfatstness to Cross Dyeing Wool

specifies resistance of the colour of textiles to the action of processes used for dyeing wool.
Click here for more detail:-http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-X07.HTM

Colorfastness to Water Spotting

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to spotting by water.
Link for detail:-http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-E07.HTM

Colorfastness to spotting Alkali

ISO 105-E06:2006 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds, and in all forms, to the action of dilute alkaline solutions.
Three tests differing in severity are provided. Any or all may be used, depending on the nature of the fibre.
Drops of a solution of sodium carbonate are placed on the specimen (textiles of all kinds and in all forms), the surface of which is rubbed gently with a glass rod to ensure penetration. The change in colour of the textile is assessed with the grey scale.
for more details click the link provided:-http://www.dfmg.com.tw/member/standard/bs/BS-E06.HTM

Colorfstness to Drycleaning

A specimen of the textile in contact with a cotton fabric bag together with non-corrodible steel discs is agitated in perchloroethylene, then squeezed or centrifuged, and dried in hot air. The change in colour of the specimen is assessed with the grey scale for assessing change in colour. Not suitable for the evaluation of the durability of textile finishes.
Brief Description:-
Sew the test specimen with 12 steel plates into cotton bag (10x10 cm) and place in a stainless steel beaker of 550 ml volume and treat with 300 ml perchloroetylene for 30 min at 30 degree temperature in the launder o meter . then remove the test specim,en , squeeze and dry in hot air max. 60 deg cel.
Assesment:- Change of color , staining of the solvent with grey scale "staining" and / or filter assessment.

Colorfastness to Chlorinated water

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to the action of active chlorine in concentrations such as are used to disinfect swimming-bath water (break-point chlorination). Three alternative test conditions are specified. The active chlorine concentrations of 50 mg/l and 100 mg/l are intended for swimwear. The active chlorine concentration of 20 mg/l is intended for accessories such as beach robes and towels

click here for detail:-
Test method for color fastness to Chlorinated Water
http://www.texanlab.com/documents/downloads/1.pdf

Colorfastness to Seawater ISO E02

A specimen of the textile in contact with one or two specified adjacent fabrics is immersed in sodium chloride solution, drained and placed between two plates under a specified pressure in a test device. The specimen and the adjacent fabric(s) are dried. The change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric(s) are assessed with the grey scales.
Brief Description :-
Wet out the test sample and adjacent fabrics completely in 30 gpl NaCl soloution at room temperature , pour off excess solution. place the test sample between two glass plates or acrylic plates under a pressure of 12.kPa(5 kp/40 cm2) and place in a drying oven for 4 hrs at 37 deg cel. hang to dry in warm air of max 60 deg. cel.
For more details click here:- ISO 105 E02

How to test colorfastness to sea water watch video here

Colofastness Testing :- A Slideshow

A very good presentation on colorfastness testings to crocking , perspiration and contact heat of textile materials.

Click here:-http://www.grupomarteam.com/archivos/SDL_ATLAS/ColoFastnessFull.PPT

Colorfastness Standard Methods

Video :- weathering Machine

Textile Testings:-Colorfastness to Water ISO E01

Scope

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to immersion in water.

The specimen, backed by multifiber test fabric, is immersed in water under specified conditions of temperature and time, and then placed between glass or plastic plates under specified conditions of pressure, temperature and time. The change in color of the specimen and the staining of the attached multifiber test fabric are observed.

More Details:- Color Fastness to Water

Textile Testings:-Colorfastness to Water ISO E01

Scope
This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of allkinds and in all forms to immersion in water.
Test method summary
Test method Number AATCC 107-2002 or ISO 105 -E01
Specimen :- Take 60 x 60 mm +/- 2 mm piece of sample to be tested along with multifiber test fabric ( no.1 or no. 10) and immerse it in freshly boiled cooled distilled water or deionized water for 15 minutes at room temperature.Squeeze the specimen to remove the excess water to get a wet weight of 2.5-3 times of dry weight.
place the wet specimen in perspirometer at a pressure of 4.5 kg , at 38+/-1 0C for 18 hrs . Remove and air dry at room temperature.
Asses the change in color and staining of multifiber fabric against grey scale on 1-5 scale.

Textile Testings:-Colorfastness to Perspiration

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to the action of human perspiration .
For detail click below:-
Color Fastness to perspiration standard test method

Textile Testings :- Brief introduction Slide show

The present slide show here describe briefly about the most common but important quality tests , along with the photographs of the instruments used.
Click here to watch the slide show:-http://www.butal.tubitak.gov.tr/UNIDO.ppt#1

Here Watch some video clips on textile testings

Life net Textile Testing

Thursday, November 26, 2009

Textile Testings:-Colorfastness to Carbonizing X02

This test describes a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles in all forms to manufacturing operation designed to remove vegetable impurities by treatment with the cited chemical at high temperatures. The method is mainly applicable to wool and textiles containing wool, particularly those containing also acetate or polyamide fibres. The treated specimen is dried, baked, rinsed and neutralized. The changes in colour after rinsing, neutralizing and drying are assessed with the grey scale.

Detail Description:-Click Here

Textile Testings:-Colorfastness to Carbonizing X01

Carbonizing AlCl3 ISO X01
Specifies a method for Determining the Resistance of the color of textiles in all forms to the manufacuring operation designed to remove vegetable impurities by a treatment at high temperatures and with the cited chemical. The method is mainly applicable to wool and textiles containing wool, particularly those containing also polyamde or acetate fibers.
Brief Description
Immerse the test specimen for 15 minutes at room temperature in Aluminium Chloride solution (51.4 gpl AlCl3 .6 H2O) at a liq ratio 20:1 , squeeze to 80% pickup, dry for at least 30 minutes at max 6o Degree Cel., Then 15 min at 115 deg. cel , rinse for 5 min in cold running water , cut the test specimen in half and dry one half at 60 deg cel and neutralise the other half for 30 min at room temp in Ammonium Hydroxide solution(2 ml/l NH4OH 20%), at liq ratio 40:1, rinse for 5 min in cold running water, dry at max 60 deg cel.
Compare neutralised vs unneutralised sample.

Textile Testings :-Colorfastness to Steam Pleating

This method is intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to the action of steam pleating processes. The materials are not pleated during the test, and it is emphasized that the test is not intended for assessing the quality of the pleating process.

Principle

A specimen of the textile in contact with specified undyed cloths is steamed under specific conditions of pressure and time and then dried. The change in color of the specimen and the staining of the undyed cloths are assessed with standard gray scales.

For Detail Click Here:-BS EN ISO 105-P02-2004

Textile Testings :- Colorfastness to Soda Boiling

A Test method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to the action of boiling dilute sodium carbonate solution. The method is mainly applicable to natural and regenerated cellulose materials.
Click Here for Details:- ISO-105-X06-1997

Textile Testings:-Color Fastness to Mercerizing

A test method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles to the action of concentrated solutions of sodium hydroxide used in mercerizing. The method is mainly applicable to cotton and to mixtures containing cotton.
Click Here for detail :http://www.4shared.com/document/Qvy7XaSh/BS_EN_ISO_105-X04_1997__Textil.html

Textile Testings :- Color Fastness to Rubbing

Test specifications

Test number : AATCC Test Method 8-2005,ISO 105-X12,

This test specifies a method for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds, including textile floor coverings and other pile fabrics, to rubbing off and staining other materials.

Crockmeter is used for testing the transference of color from the surface of one material to another by either wet or dry rubbing.

Specifications of apparatus as per standard :- ISO 105, BS 1006, AATCC 8, BS EN 20105

Testing of color fastness to Dry Rubbing

Properly mount the specimen and test cloths. Reset the counter . The finger is positioned on the specimen at the base’s front end and handle is rotated in the clockwise direction at the rate of approximately 1 revolution per second. The handle is then rotated equal to the number of strokes specified by the test method.When the desired number of strokes is reached, the crocking cloth is removed from the finger and its degree of staining has to be evaluated by SDC grey scale.

Testing of color fastness to Wet Rubbing:

A fresh piece of crocking cloth is soaked in distilled water and the excess water is removed so that it contains its own mass of water.This wet piece of the crocking cloth is fixed over the end of the finger of the Crockmeter and the test is undertaken.
The dyed or printed fabric is mounted on the lower platform.Then 10 cycles are rubbed with a white fabric. The extent of color that rubs away onto the white fabric is determined against the grey scale for staining. click here for detail:- Standard Test method

Watch video :- How to Test crocking fastness of textiles

Specification for cotton rubbing cloth

ISO-105 F09 2009

ISO 105-F09:2009 specifies a cotton rubbing cloth which can be used for the assessment of staining in colour fastness to rubbing tests. The staining properties of the cotton rubbing cloth under test are assessed against a cotton rubbing cloth reference fabric, using a cotton dyed reference fabric, both of which are available from a specified source.

For complete specifications Click Here

Friday, November 20, 2009

Light Sources

What are the systems of defining the light sources?
CIE Rating - Based on CIE Publication 51, it is a very strict rating of a light source’s ability to reproduce daylight, in both the visible and ultraviolet spectrums. The first letter provides the rating for
the visible spectrum and the second letter the rating for the UV spectrum. An “AA” rating is the highest and “EE” the lowest. A rating of “BC” or better is acceptable for color matching applications.

To Learn about various light sources Click Here
Color Rendering Index (CRI) - A rating of a light sources ability to reproduce a daylight source. The Color Rendering Index is a scale (0-100) that represents how closely a light source depicts or reflects an object's true color. As a general rule of

thumb, the higher the CRI, the more accurate an object will appear. In the lighting industry, , a rating of 92 or higher is required for critical color evaluation applications.and depicts a truer color.

Color Temperature (AKA Correlated Color Temperature) - A rating of a light sources color output. It is based on the Kelvin scale in which 0 degrees is at Absolute Zero (-273 C) where all motion in a molecule is deemed to stop. The lower the color temperature of the light source, the redder the source will be. Inversely, the higher the color temperature of the source, the bluer it will be. Some common color temperatures, common names associated with them and their associated colors are:
7500K (D75) North Sky Daylight Moderate to Deep Blue
6500K(D65) Average Daylight Moderate Blue
5000K (D50) Equal Energy Daylight White
4100K Various fluorescent sources Greenish
3000K Various fluorescent sources Orangish
200K Tungsten A Red/Yellow
2865K Illuminant A Yellowish Red
2300K Horizon Reddish

What are the standard light sources for textile shade matching?
D75 (Color temperature 75000K) - “North Sky Daylight.”
A bluish colored light source originally used for grading cotton and other evaluation applications.
D65/ F7 (Color temperature 65000K) – “Day Light”
A light bluish colored light source used in color matching applications of paints, plastics, textiles, raw inks, and other manufactured products. It is the only daylight source that was actually measured.
D50 (Color temperature 50000K)
A near white light source used in the evaluation of graphic arts and imaging applications.
Ultra Violet(UV Light)
UV Light energy not normally visible to the human eye, but which is present in natural daylight. UV energy has the ability to excite certain substances (such as optical brightening agents) within a sample causing them to emit light in the visible spectrum, usually in the blue region.
F2( also called F,F02,Fcw,CWF,CWF2)Cool White Fluorescent (CWF Color temperature approx 41000K)
A wide band single phosphor fluorescent source commonly used in commercial lighting applications and office environment..
F11 :- represents a narrow tri band fluorescent at 40000K color temperature.
Warm White Fluorescent & TL830(WWF Color temperature approx 30000K)
A wide band single phosphor fluorescent source used in commercial lighting applications.
TL84(Color temperature approx 41000K)
A narrow band tri-phosphor fluorescent source originally designed for commercial lighting applications.
TL835(color temperature of approximately 35000K )
A narrow band tri-phosphor fluorescent source originally designed for commercial lighting applications.
Ultralume 30 (U30 or 30U Color temperature approx 30000K) - A narrow band tri-phosphor fluorescent source originally designed for commercial lighting applications
Ultralume 35 (U35 or 35U color temperature of approximately 35000K) - A narrow band tri-phosphor fluorescent source originally designed for commercial lighting applications
Source A :-Incandescent and Tungsten Illumination
A typical light bulb found in the home is an incandescent tungsten lamp. It uses a tungsten filament that will glow when electricity is passed through it. These lamps are very common and are used in color match applications where a yellowish to red source is required.
Source C :- it is a historical representation of average sky day light at 67740K .
Tungsten A (3200K )–
is used primarily in the photographic, film and video industries where a “whiteish” source and continuous light output are required. It is not commonly used for color matching applications.
Illuminant A(2865K) - is a standardized illuminant described in the international standard, CIE Publication 15.2 and specified for use in color matching applications in ASTM D1729-96. It is used where a yellowishred source is required. It is the predominant source/illuminant used for both instrumental and visual color matching applications.
Horizon(2300K )-
Reddish Source described in older specifications and used for color matching applications Horizon in an outdated standard as an “Incandescent illumination of low correlated color temperature it is not used in instrumental color matching applications.

Name of CCT (0K) CRI description
light
source
A 2856 98 Incandescent tungsten
B 4874 Obsolete, direct sunlight at
noon
C 6774 Obsolete, north sky daylight
D50 5003 98 ICC Profile PCS. Horizon light.
D55 5503 Compromise between
incandescent and daylight
D65 6504 98 Television, sRGB color
space
D75 7504 96 North sky day light
E 5454 Equal energy
F1 6430 Daylight Fluorescent
F2 4230 62 Cool White Fluorescent
F3 3450 54 White Fluorescent
F4 2940 51 Warm White Fluorescent
F5 6350 Daylight Fluorescent
F6 4150 Lite White Fluorescent
F7 6500 98 D65 simulator, day light
simulator
F8 5000 98 D50 simulator, Sylvania
F40 Design
F9 4150 Cool White Deluxe
Fluorescent
F10 5000 Philips TL85,
Ultralume 50
F11 4000 83 Philips TL84,
Ultralume 40
F12 3000 85 Philips TL83,
Ultralume 30
Further readings
Light Bulb Colour Temperatures
Explanation of various light sources

FAQs about “Daylight” Lighting

ERP In Textile Dyeing

ENTERPRISE RESOURCES PLANNING (ERP)
What is ERP ?
ERP means enterprise resources planning . It is the latest technique of planning and managing all functions of a business such as production planning, production process, marketing , accounting ,supply chain management and so on.

Why ERP in textile dyeing ?
Since textile dyeing and finishing is a major value addition process to the textiles, therefore managing and utilizing all resources becomes important. A suitable ERP software , therefore is a must in a dye house because of its very large numbers of variables and complex nature of operations. The global competition in the textile and garment sector is squeezing the profit margins to large extents, and increasing cost of inputs such as manpower, dyes , chemicals, fuel ,energy , power and environmental concerns forcing the dyeing industry to manage and utilize the resources in a balanced manner ,to produce accurate shade at an economical cost , better quality at right time .
To be successful in an ever-growing competition of quality and service at lowest price in the textile dyeing , we need an efficient planning system to utilize all resources to maximum extent , to cut the service time , to reduce cost and to minimize wastages .
An efficient and suitable ERP software is a very strong tool to integrate all operations from receiving an order from an overseas buyer , up to delivery of goods. All operations such as order receipt , work order making, material procurement & allotment , capacity planning, production planning, machine balancing, quality inspection & management, control of inventory & its management, packing , sampling and dispatch to be integrated.

Benefits of ERP in Dyeing?
Few of the benefits of a successful ERP are ,
a. production planning enhances the capacity utilization.
b. process control helps to reduce the waste and increase accuracy , reduce shade corrections and re dyeing, the system helps to find out the real weakness and causes of failure and promotes new process development.
c. inventory management results into less carrying cost and minimizing the losses due to stock outs.
d. information collection and response to the customers is faster and accurate.
e. Reduce the manpower dependency , by reducing the manual work and reports preparation, reduces multiple recording and repetition of work such as data entry.
f. Increases the man power efficiency because all reports regarding material movement and order execution can be accessed at any time and place.
g. Reduces the stress and strain of work on employer and employee.
h. The defect detection , causes analysis and preventive measures ensures fault free working in future orders.
In nutshell a good ERP system results into customer satisfaction , better product quality at reduced cost and at right time.
What is required for successful ERP system?
1. Proper selection of modules, because wrong selection of modules causes failures of ERP. Modules should comply with the needs of organization and comply with its objectives.
2. Integration of modules:- Different modules must be integrated well to generate consolidated as well as individual reports. Reporting system should be according to the organization requirements and as per the hierarchy of the organization.
3. Transfer of technology and training:- the technology transfer from the vendor to the user must be complete , with proper training to the users.
4. Data entry and report retrieval must simple and easy , data entry and report generation modules must be grouped separately , and integrated with the internet.
5. programming language must be user friendly for further development, modification and integration with other software. It must be user friendly for the future upgradation.
6. The system should be secure enough for use on internet as well as for multilevel users and should be with networking capability and cater to the needs and objectives of the organization.
Read More Articles
Role of ERP in Textile Industry
Use Of ERP in textiles
ERP in textiles
Implementing SAP ERP Sales & Distribution
Why ERP? A Primer on SAP Implementation
Configuring SAP ERP Financials and Controlling
SAP ERP Financials: Configuration and Design

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